I stumbled onto this YouTube channel tonight. I had seen this gentleman post pictures of himself on StyleForum periodically, but I never knew until now who he is or that he's on YouTube.
Saturday, May 15, 2021
Apparently today -- May 15 -- was most traditionally "Straw Hat Day" in the United States, the day when it was no longer socially acceptable to wear a felt hat.
The reverse, Felt Hat Day, was often on September 15.
I say "often" because apparently this varied somewhat by era, but also by region within a given era. That's only sensible, as obviously it generally warms first in the south and latest in the north; concessions to weather, rather than to a fixed date -- especially if that date is arbitrary, like May 15 -- seem to be a better guideline, within reason. An equally logical argument could probably be made for the first day of spring, for Easter, for May 1 or May 15, or for Memorial Day for Straw Hat Day, according to locale and even to that locale's weather in a particular year.
For example, thankfully it's been unseasonably cool so far this year where I am in the Midwest, so it would make no sense to wear a straw hat when it's in the 60s -- or even 50s -- and raining, no matter how far it is into May.
(For a fascinating history of all of this, see the book Hatless Jack.)
Anyway, I bring this up this year because I just saw these neat photos on social media.
According to Hatless Jack, the straw hats men wore back in the day were usually inexpensive and pretty much disposable, so it was common for men to throw them out when Felt Hat Day came in September. Hopefully the men below were just staging a photo and weren't really doing the reverse and throwing out their felt hats!
Of course, these arbitrary dates and rules are mostly antiquated trivia in 2021; today few men wear dress hats at all, and those that do are free to do what they want.
Friday, December 18, 2020
Link: Prince Charles hates 'throwing anything away': Royal talks sustainable fashion, patching his old suits
Prince Charles gave an interview last month to Vogue magazine, discussing (among other things) permanent style.
Thursday, November 14, 2019
Friday, May 31, 2019
- Natural shoulders
- Three-roll-two button stance (not mandatory, but leaves less room for some designer to get too trendy)
- Jacket just long enough to cover the rear end
- Sleeves shortened to show 1/4" to 1" of shirt cuff (amount depending on personal preference)
- Full-cut trousers (not too baggy or too tight) with a classic rise (placing the waistband on the natural waist, over the bellybutton)
- Trousers tailored with a slight break, long enough to cover the socks when walking but not long enough to puddle (this is a matter of preference to some extent, but that length always looks good)
- Substantial cuffs, 1 3/4" to 2" high (optional, but they always look good)
- Lapels, collar points and tie all around 3 1/2 inches
- Natural (or at least natural-looking) fabrics
- Round-toe leather oxfords in cap-toe or some brogue variation (as in this case)
As Cary Grant commented in the Winter 1967/68 issue of GQ about his own wardrobe:
"I'm often asked for advice or an opinion about clothes, and I always try to answer the best I can, but I'm not inclined to regard myself as an authority on the subject. Many times during my years in films, some well-meaning group has selected me as best-dressed man of the year, but I've never understood why. The odd distinction surprises me: first, because I don't consider myself especially well dressed, and, secondly, I've never, as far as I can compare the efforts of others with my own, gone to any special trouble to acquire clothes that could be regarded as noticeably fashionable or up-to-date.
"Some of my suits are ten to twenty years old, many of them ready-made and reasonably priced. Those that were custom-tailored were made by many different tailors in many different cities: London, Hong Kong, New York and Los Angeles. I believe that American ready-made clothes are the best ready-made clothes in the world: that the well-dressed American man makes a better appearance than the well-dressed man of any other country.
"No, it isn't only money that determines how well a man dresses—it's personal taste. Because of the demands of my work, I've purchased dozens of suits over the years and they all have one attribute in common: they are in the middle of fashion. By that I mean they're not self-consciously fashionable or far out, nor are they overly conservative or dated. In other words, the lapels are neither too wide nor too narrow, the trousers neither too tight nor too loose, the coats neither too short nor too long. I've worn clothes of extreme style, but only in order to dress appropriately for the type of character I played in particular films. Otherwise, simplicity, to me, has always been the essence of good taste."